How can I use tomatoes that are under- and overripe?

This sounds like a job for self-proclaimed tomato aficionado Mike Davies, who happens to be sitting in his mother's garden, starring at her green, under-ripe tomatoes. "The first thing I'd say is that we're apparently getting good weather this month, so there's a chance they'll still ripen," says the chef director of the Camberwell Arms in south London and author of Cooking for People. If you don't want to wait, green tomatoes, with their high acidity and tougher texture, are ideal for extended cooking times.

For this reason, chutney is a popular remedy, but fermenting is also a viable option, according to Jan Ostle, head chef and co-founder of Wilsons in Bristol. "We had a whole crop of tomatoes fail last year, so we lacto-fermented them and immersed them in a brine containing 2% of their total weight. It's been a pleasure working through them this year."

Green tomatoes have been gaining popularity among home cooks and professional chefs alike in recent years. Their unique tart flavor and firm texture make them versatile ingredients in both savory and sweet dishes. From fried green tomatoes to green tomato pie, these unripe fruits are finding their way into kitchens across the country. The trend has even sparked green tomato festivals in some regions, celebrating the culinary potential of this once-overlooked produce.

Davies' preferred method would be to fry green tomato tempura or pakoras. For the latter, he dices green tomatoes, seasons with salt, and folds in green chilies, coriander, possibly nigella seeds, and a little turmeric. "Leave to macerate so the tomatoes start to produce juices, then fold in a little gram flour and rice flour for crispness (in a 3:1 ratio), until you have a batter thick enough to hold the tomatoes." The pakoras can then be lightly fried (like a fritter) or deep fried and served with tamarind dipping sauce or minty pickle. "Tempura batter is more straightforward," Davies explains. "Mix rice flour and sparkling water to a dropping consistency, then season the tomatoes and drop them in."

Nutritionists have also weighed in on the health benefits of green tomatoes. While they contain less lycopene than their ripe counterparts, green tomatoes are rich in vitamins C and K, as well as antioxidants. Some studies suggest that compounds found in green tomatoes may have potential anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. However, experts caution that more research is needed to fully understand these effects.

Meanwhile, the eminently reasonable Nigel Slater bakes green and red tomatoes ("about one-third green to two-thirds ripe ones"), olives, garlic, and thyme alongside chicken thighs. Green tomatoes can be served uncooked, according to Ostle, as long as they are finely sliced. "Season with a little rock salt and nice demerara sugar, then let aside for an hour. They'd be perfect with grilled fish."

For those looking to experiment with green tomatoes at home, experts recommend starting with simple recipes. Green tomato salsa, for example, is an easy way to incorporate the fruit into your cooking. Simply dice green tomatoes and mix with onion, jalapeño, cilantro, lime juice, and salt for a tangy twist on traditional salsa. Green tomato pickles are another popular option, offering a way to preserve the harvest and enjoy the unique flavor throughout the year.

Other potential tomato tragedies include ripe tomatoes that lack taste. "If I'm making a sauce and the tomatoes aren't up to scratch, I'll boost them with a bit of sugar and a nice vinegar - say merlot or just red-wine vinegar," explains Davies. Otherwise, he turns to salt. "You need to be really diligent with your seasoning to get the most out of a tomato." In the same vein, Ostle seasons subpar tomatoes with rock salt and black pepper before leaving for around three hours to extract the juices. "Add a little sugar to those juices, mix with rapeseed oil, then dress the tomatoes in the sweetened tomato water." The secret, according to Ostle, is to cut the tomatoes finely so that they are well covered with the sauce.

As interest in sustainable cooking practices grows, green tomatoes are also finding a place in the zero-waste movement. Chefs and home cooks are discovering creative ways to use every part of the tomato plant, from the leaves to the stems. Green tomato leaves, for instance, can be used to infuse oils or vinegars with a subtle tomato flavor. Some adventurous cooks are even experimenting with green tomato leaf pesto, though it's important to note that tomato leaves should be used in moderation due to their high alkaloid content.

What if your tomatoes are too mushy to consume raw? Apply high heat. "I do something called burst tomatoes," Davies explains. He places a load in a high-sided roasting tray, "They should be slightly overcrowded," with plenty of oil, crushed garlic, seasoning, a few capers, and a pinch of chili. Place the dish in a very hot oven and cook until the tomatoes burst, creating a rustic-style sauce that you'll want to eat over and over.