The forgotten Italian white wine making a comeback

[WORLD] In the ever-evolving world of wine, trends come and go, but true classics always find their way back into the spotlight. Such is the case with Gavi, a crisp Italian white wine that's been quietly waiting in the wings, ready to reclaim its former glory. Once the go-to choice for sophisticated wine enthusiasts, Gavi fell out of favor as Pinot Grigio rose to prominence. However, as wine lovers seek new experiences and rediscover hidden gems, Gavi is poised for a triumphant return.

Gavi, also known as Cortese di Gavi, hails from the picturesque Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. This area, renowned for its rolling hills and diverse terroir, is primarily associated with bold red wines like Barolo and Barbaresco. However, nestled within this red wine haven lies the small town of Gavi, where the Cortese grape thrives and produces a white wine of remarkable character.

The Cortese grape, the sole variety used in Gavi production, has been cultivated in this region for centuries. Its history dates back to the 17th century, with written records praising its quality and potential. The grape's name, which means "courteous" in Italian, is a nod to its gentle and approachable nature.

The Rise and Fall of Gavi

In the 1970s and early 1980s, Gavi enjoyed a period of immense popularity, particularly in the United States. Its crisp, refreshing profile and elegant simplicity made it a favorite among wine enthusiasts and casual drinkers alike. Gavi was the chic Italian white wine of choice, gracing restaurant wine lists and dinner parties with its understated sophistication.

However, as with many trends in the wine world, Gavi's reign was not destined to last forever. The rise of Pinot Grigio in the late 1980s and early 1990s saw Gavi gradually pushed to the sidelines. Pinot Grigio's easy-drinking nature and widespread availability made it the new darling of Italian white wines, leaving Gavi to fade into relative obscurity.

The Unique Character of Gavi

Despite its temporary fall from grace, Gavi has never lost its inherent quality and charm. Made exclusively from the Cortese grape, Gavi offers a distinct flavor profile that sets it apart from other Italian white wines. Typically, Gavi presents a pale straw color with subtle green hues, hinting at its freshness and vitality.

On the nose, Gavi often exhibits delicate aromas of white flowers, green apple, and citrus fruits. Some expressions may also reveal notes of almond or a subtle mineral character, reflecting the unique terroir of the Piedmont region. The palate is generally crisp and refreshing, with a lively acidity that makes it an excellent companion to a wide range of dishes.

Gavi's Versatility in Food Pairing

One of Gavi's greatest strengths is its versatility when it comes to food pairing. Its crisp acidity and subtle flavors make it an ideal match for various cuisines and dishes. Seafood, in particular, finds a perfect companion in Gavi. The wine's bright acidity complements the delicate flavors of shellfish and white fish beautifully.

Gavi also pairs wonderfully with light pasta dishes, especially those featuring pesto or seafood. Its refreshing nature makes it an excellent choice for salads and vegetable-based appetizers. For cheese lovers, Gavi's acidity cuts through the richness of soft, creamy cheeses, creating a harmonious balance on the palate.

The Revival of Gavi

As wine enthusiasts continue to explore beyond the familiar, Gavi is experiencing a resurgence in popularity. This revival can be attributed to several factors, including a growing interest in lesser-known wine regions and varieties, as well as a desire for wines that offer both quality and value.

Wine critic Eric Asimov notes, "Gavi is a wine that deserves attention. It offers a unique expression of the Cortese grape and the Piedmont terroir, providing a refreshing alternative to more ubiquitous Italian white wines".

Gavi's Place in the Modern Wine Landscape

In today's wine market, Gavi occupies a unique position. It offers the familiarity of Italian white wine while providing a distinct alternative to the omnipresent Pinot Grigio. For wine lovers seeking to expand their palates without venturing too far from their comfort zone, Gavi presents an excellent opportunity.

Moreover, Gavi often represents excellent value for money. While premium examples can command higher prices, many high-quality Gavi wines are available at accessible price points. This combination of quality and affordability makes Gavi an attractive option for both casual drinkers and seasoned wine enthusiasts.

Exploring Gavi: What to Look For

When exploring the world of Gavi, there are a few key factors to consider. First, look for wines labeled "Gavi di Gavi" or "Gavi del Comune di Gavi." These designations indicate that the grapes were grown in the heart of the Gavi production zone, often resulting in wines of particular distinction.

Pay attention to the vintage as well. While Gavi is generally best enjoyed young to appreciate its fresh, vibrant character, some producers create age-worthy expressions that can develop intriguing complexity over time.

The Future of Gavi

As Gavi continues its resurgence, it's likely to attract more attention from both consumers and wine professionals. This renewed interest could lead to increased investment in the region, potentially resulting in even higher quality wines and more diverse expressions of the Cortese grape.

Wine educator and author Kevin Zraly comments, "Gavi has the potential to reclaim its position as one of Italy's premier white wines. Its unique character and versatility make it a wine worth rediscovering".

Gavi's journey from obscurity back into the limelight is a testament to the cyclical nature of wine trends and the enduring quality of classic wines. As more wine lovers seek out alternatives to ubiquitous varieties, Gavi offers a compelling option that combines tradition, quality, and value.

Whether you're a seasoned wine connoisseur or a curious novice, giving Gavi another try could lead to a delightful rediscovery. Its crisp, refreshing nature and food-friendly profile make it a versatile choice for various occasions. As we continue to explore the vast world of wine, Gavi stands ready to reclaim its place as a beloved Italian white, inviting us to experience the unique charm of the Cortese grape and the terroir of Piedmont.