[UNITED STATES] Victoria's Secret, once the undisputed queen of the lingerie world, has long been more than just a retailer of intimate apparel. The brand's influence has permeated fashion, media, and retail landscapes, leaving an indelible mark on American consumerism. As the iconic Victoria's Secret Fashion Show makes its highly anticipated return after a six-year hiatus, a new book titled "Selling Sexy: Victoria's Secret and the Unraveling of an American Icon" by Chantal Fernandez and Lauren Sherman delves deep into the brand's transformative journey and its lasting impact on the industry.
The Return of an Icon
The 2024 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show marks a significant moment in the brand's history. After a long absence, the runway event has returned with a mix of nostalgia and attempts at modernization. The show featured a star-studded lineup, including long-time Victoria's Secret angels Adriana Lima and Tyra Banks, alongside current supermodels like Candice Swanepoel, Behati Prinsloo, and Gigi Hadid.
In a nod to changing times and the importance of digital presence, the event was live-streamed on social media platforms and Amazon, aiming to recapture its once-unrivaled cultural significance. The inclusion of music icon Cher as a performer and the attendance of global K-pop sensation Lisa from Blackpink further underscore the brand's efforts to appeal to a diverse, international audience.
The Rise of a Retail Giant
Victoria's Secret's journey began in 1977, founded on the concept of an idealized British woman - a fictional character that would lend the brand an air of sophistication and mystery. The 1980s and 1990s saw rapid expansion under the leadership of Les Wexner, transforming Victoria's Secret from a small lingerie company into a retail powerhouse.
The brand's growth strategy was multifaceted:
Innovative Marketing: Victoria's Secret pioneered the concept of fashion-as-entertainment with its annual fashion show.
Brand Positioning: By positioning itself as accessible luxury, the brand appealed to a wide range of consumers.
Retail Experience: The company revolutionized lingerie shopping, creating inviting, feminine store environments.
The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show Phenomenon
The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, first televised in 2001, quickly became a cultural touchstone. At its peak in 2001, the show attracted over 12 million viewers, a testament to its widespread appeal and cultural significance.
Chantal Fernandez, co-author of "Selling Sexy," explains the show's initial success: "When the show started, regular American people were not exposed to fashion. They couldn't watch the Louis Vuitton show live. That's part of what made it so successful – it was a glimpse into this really insular world and a way to interact with these models."
The show's formula was simple yet effective:
Glamour and Fantasy: Elaborate costumes and set designs created a world of fantasy.
Supermodel Status: The show elevated its models to superstar status, creating the coveted "Victoria's Secret Angel" title.
Musical Performances: Integration of A-list musical acts added to the event's entertainment value.
Transforming the Fashion Landscape
Victoria's Secret's influence extended far beyond lingerie sales. The brand played a crucial role in shaping beauty standards and fashion trends throughout the late 20th and early 21st centuries:
Body Ideals: The "Victoria's Secret Angel" became synonymous with a specific body type, influencing societal beauty standards.
Lingerie as Outerwear: The brand popularized the trend of incorporating lingerie elements into everyday fashion.
Supermodel Culture: Victoria's Secret played a significant role in elevating models to celebrity status.
Media and Marketing Innovation
Victoria's Secret's approach to media and marketing set new standards in the retail industry:
Catalog Marketing: The Victoria's Secret catalog became a cultural phenomenon in its own right.
Television Advertising: The brand's commercials pushed the boundaries of what was acceptable in mainstream media.
Social Media Engagement: As digital platforms emerged, Victoria's Secret was quick to adapt, building a strong online presence.
The Unraveling of an American Icon
Despite its meteoric rise, Victoria's Secret faced significant challenges in recent years. The brand's decline was precipitated by several factors:
Changing Consumer Preferences: A shift towards body positivity and inclusivity clashed with the brand's traditional image.
Increased Competition: The rise of inclusive lingerie brands offered consumers alternatives.
Controversies: Allegations of misconduct against marketing executive Ed Razek and former CEO Les Wexner's association with Jeffrey Epstein tarnished the brand's image.
Fernandez and Sherman's book, "Selling Sexy," provides an in-depth look at these challenges. The authors note that despite the brand's attempts to evolve, regaining its former cultural cache will be difficult. "Now if you want to see Gigi Hadid walk down a runway, you can just open TikTok," Fernandez points out. "Moving the needle culturally is so much harder today."
The Rebranding Effort
In response to changing times and consumer demands, Victoria's Secret has embarked on a significant rebranding effort:
Diverse Representation: The brand has made efforts to include a more diverse range of models in its campaigns and shows.
Product Evolution: There's been a shift towards more comfortable, everyday lingerie options.
Brand Messaging: The company has attempted to align its messaging with themes of empowerment and inclusivity.
The return of the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in 2024 is part of this rebranding strategy. However, as Fernandez notes, "Even if they were to nail the messaging, which they still struggle to totally synthesise, the vehicle for getting it out is so much more competitive and crowded."
The Legacy and Future of Victoria's Secret
Victoria's Secret's impact on fashion, media, and retail in the United States is undeniable. The brand:
- Revolutionized lingerie retail
- Transformed fashion marketing
- Influenced beauty standards and pop culture
As the brand navigates its future, it faces the challenge of balancing its iconic legacy with the demands of a new era. The success of its rebranding efforts and the reception of the revived fashion show will be crucial indicators of Victoria's Secret's ability to remain relevant in a rapidly changing retail landscape.
"Selling Sexy: Victoria's Secret and the Unraveling of an American Icon" offers a comprehensive look at one of the most influential brands in American retail history. From its humble beginnings to its status as a cultural phenomenon and its subsequent challenges, Victoria's Secret's journey mirrors broader shifts in consumer culture, media, and societal values.
As Victoria's Secret attempts to write its next chapter, the fashion industry and consumers alike will be watching closely. The brand's ability to adapt while maintaining its identity will determine whether it can reclaim its position as a trendsetter in the worlds of fashion, media, and retail.
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