The natural wine revolution

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  • Natural wines represent a philosophy emphasizing minimal intervention and organic practices in both vineyard and cellar.
  • The natural wine movement promotes sustainability, biodiversity, and a deeper connection to terroir.
  • While controversial, natural wines continue to gain popularity, challenging conventional notions of winemaking and taste.

[WORLD] In recent years, the wine industry has witnessed a significant shift towards natural wines, a movement that goes far beyond just another category of wine. Natural wines represent a philosophy, a way of thinking about winemaking that prioritizes minimal intervention, organic practices, and a deep respect for terroir. This approach has gained traction among wine enthusiasts, sommeliers, and environmentally conscious consumers alike, sparking debates and reshaping the landscape of the wine world.

Natural wines are, at their core, wines made with minimal technological intervention in both the vineyard and the cellar. This philosophy emphasizes organic viticulture, hand-harvesting, and spontaneous fermentation using native yeasts. Unlike conventional wines, natural wines typically contain little to no added sulfites and are often unfiltered, resulting in a product that many consider to be a purer expression of the grape and its terroir.

The natural wine movement has its roots in the 1960s in France's Beaujolais region, where a group of winemakers began experimenting with traditional, low-intervention methods. Today, it has spread globally, with natural wine producers found in every major wine-producing country.

The Philosophy Behind Natural Wines

The natural wine philosophy extends beyond the technical aspects of winemaking. It embodies a holistic approach to agriculture and consumption, emphasizing sustainability, biodiversity, and authenticity. Natural winemakers often view their role as stewards of the land, working in harmony with nature rather than trying to control it.

"Natural wine is not just about what's in the bottle, it's about a way of life," says Alice Feiring, a prominent natural wine advocate and author. This sentiment is echoed by many in the natural wine community, who see their work as part of a broader movement towards more sustainable and ethical food and drink production.

Organic and Biodynamic Practices

Many natural winemakers embrace organic and biodynamic farming practices. Organic viticulture prohibits the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, relying instead on natural methods to manage pests and promote soil health. Biodynamic farming takes this a step further, treating the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem and incorporating practices based on lunar cycles and homeopathic treatments.

These methods not only produce healthier grapes but also contribute to increased biodiversity in the vineyard. Many natural winemakers report seeing a resurgence of native plant and animal species in their vineyards after transitioning to organic or biodynamic practices.

Minimal Intervention in the Cellar

The natural wine philosophy extends into the winery, where winemakers aim to intervene as little as possible in the fermentation and aging process. This often means:

  • Using native yeasts for fermentation rather than commercial strains
  • Avoiding additives and fining agents
  • Minimal or no filtration
  • Little to no added sulfites

The result is a wine that many describe as more alive, with greater complexity and a stronger connection to its place of origin. However, this approach also means that natural wines can be more unpredictable and variable from bottle to bottle.

The Sensory Experience of Natural Wines

Natural wines often offer a unique sensory experience that sets them apart from conventional wines. They can be cloudy in appearance due to the lack of filtration, and may have a slightly effervescent quality from residual carbon dioxide. The flavors and aromas can be intense and unusual, sometimes described as funky or barnyard-like.

"Natural wines challenge our preconceptions of what wine should taste like," says Pascaline Lepeltier, a Master Sommelier and natural wine advocate. "They invite us to expand our palates and appreciate a wider range of flavors and textures."

Challenges and Controversies

The natural wine movement is not without its critics. Some argue that the term "natural" is too vague and unregulated, leading to confusion in the marketplace. Others contend that the lack of sulfites and filtration can lead to unstable wines prone to spoilage.

There's also debate within the wine industry about whether natural wines accurately represent terroir, with some arguing that flaws in natural wines can mask the true character of the grape and its origin.

Despite these challenges, the natural wine movement continues to grow, with an increasing number of wine bars, restaurants, and retailers specializing in natural wines.

The Future of Natural Wines

As consumer interest in organic and sustainable products continues to rise, the natural wine movement is likely to gain even more momentum. Many conventional winemakers are beginning to adopt some natural wine practices, such as reducing sulfite use or experimenting with native yeast fermentations.

However, true natural wine advocates argue that it's not just about adopting a few techniques, but about embracing the entire philosophy. "Natural wine is a commitment to a way of working with nature, not against it," says Isabelle Legeron, founder of the RAW WINE fair and a leading voice in the natural wine world.

Natural wines represent more than just a trend in the wine industry; they embody a philosophy that challenges our relationship with agriculture, consumption, and the environment. While they may not be for everyone, natural wines have undoubtedly sparked important conversations about sustainability, authenticity, and the future of winemaking.

As the movement continues to evolve, it's clear that natural wines have secured their place in the diverse and ever-changing world of wine. Whether you're a curious novice or a seasoned oenophile, exploring natural wines offers an opportunity to experience wine in a new and thought-provoking way.


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